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Procedure for Deep Wrinkle Cream

1. Heat Phase A & B separately to approximately 80°C.
2. Add Phase A to B with stirring*.
3. Homogenize.
4. Cool with gentle stirring to approximately 60°C and add Phase C.
5. Homogenize for a short time.
6. Cool with gentle stirring and add to Phase D below 40°C.

*If Phase A has to be charged into the vessel first, Phase B must be added without stirring.

Formulation No. MAC 638/7/2

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Procedure for Peptide Anti-Wrinkle Cream 

1. Heat Phase A and B separately to 70-75°C.
2. Add Phase A to Phase B with stirring*.
3. Homogenize.
4. Cool with gentle stirring.

*If Phase A has to be charged into the vessel first, Phase B must be added without stirring.

Formulation No. MF 19/08

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Formulation# GLEA22-0140

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Formulation# GLEA22-0141

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Ingredient Highlight:

• Ceramide III EP MB (Cetearyl Alcohol; Ceramide NP) – an easy to process blend of Ceramide III, which is a skin-identical barrier lipid. Ceramide III supports the renewal of the skin’s natural protective layer and forms an effective barrier against moisture loss. This ingredient is based on vegetable raw materials and Cosmos approved
• TEGO® Sterol KCS (Potassium Cholesteryl Sulfate) – a skin identical Cholesterol derivative that is naturally found in the extracellular lipid matrix in the stratum corneum. It assists in cell desquamation and promotes fatty acid synthesis. Combining this ingredient with fatty acids and ceramides, creates an efficient protective skin barrier
• BIOCHEMICA® TUCUMA BUTTER REFINED (Astrocaryum Tucuma Seed Butter) – a light-colored butter found in the seeds of the fruit of the Brazilian Amazon tree, Astrocaryum tucuma. It has a unique, characteristic odor and silicone-like behavior – it is solid at room temperature but melts immediately on contact with the skin. The butter’s natural gloss brings a desirable shine to dry, damaged hair and can act as a wonderful skin moisturizer, exhibiting great skin lubricity
• dermofeel® sensolv MB (Isoamyl Laurate) – a medium polarity oil with high spreadability that provides an elegant, light, and non-sticky sensorial profile for skin and hair care products. Furthermore, dermofeel® sensolv MB shows excellent wetting properties of hydrophobically coated pigments and very good solubilization of crystalline UV-filters
• dermofeel® NC MB (Polyglyceryl-3 Distearate; Glyceryl Stearate Citrate) – a non-ionic, PEG-free emulsifier that is completely based on renewable raw materials. It provides excellent stabilization of classical O/W emulsions in a pH range of 3.5 – 8.5 with all types of cosmetic oils. dermofeel® NC MB can build viscosity in cosmetic emulsions when used in combination with consistency enhancers

How to use: After cleansing, apply evenly to the skin. Can be used morning and night.

Procedure for Thirst Trap – Lipid Barrier Cream

1. Add water to main mixing vessel and begin stirring. Premix and glycerin, add to water and mix well, heat to 70-80°C.
2. Combine Phase B ingredients in a separate vessel and heat to 75-80°C with stirring.
3. At 75-80°C, add Phase B to phase A and homogenize for 2 minutes.
4. Continue mixing Phase AB and cool to less than 40°
5. Once cooled, add Phase C ingredients to Phase AB one by one with continuous mixing. Adjust pH to 5.0-5.5 with citric acid.

Formulation no. DWLA2116

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Ingredient Highlights:

• dermofeel® sensolv MB (Isoamyl Laurate) – a medium polarity oil with high spreadability that provides an elegant, light, and non-sticky sensorial profile for skin and hair care products. Furthermore, it shows excellent wetting properties of hydrophobically coated pigments and very good solubilization of crystalline UV-filters
• dermofeel® NC MB (Polyglyceryl-3 Distearate; Glyceryl Stearate Citrate) – a non-ionic, PEG-free emulsifier that is completely based on renewable raw materials. It provides excellent stabilization of classical O/W emulsions in a pH range of 3.5 – 8.5 with all types of cosmetic oils. dermofeel® NC MB can build viscosity in cosmetic emulsions when used in combination with consistency enhancers
• OLIWAX® LC (Cetyl Palmitate; Sorbitan Palmitate; Sorbitan Olivate) –  a COSMOS-validated stabilizing agent and liquid crystal promoter that is easy to use in emulsion or anhydrous systems. The high-water content of the liquid crystalline structure provides a unique after-feel to the formulation.  OLIWAX® LC is recommended for innovative and sophisticated cosmetic products
• BRONTIDE (Butylene Glycol) – a high-performance ingredient made in Europe from an innovative fermentation process which converts non-GMO plant sugars into an ultra-high purity butylene glycol. Brontide conforms to ISO 16128-1 as Natural Ingredient with a natural index of 1 and is 100% biobased. It integrates into current formulations without sacrificing quality or needing reformulation

How to use: Apply product with hands or a cosmetic sponge and blend into the skin.

Phase	Trade Name	INCI Name	% w/w
A	Water	Water (aqua)	QS to 100
		Kaolin	3.00
		Kaolin	2.00
	BRONTIDE	Butylene Glycol	5.00
		Xanthan Gum	0.40
B		Zinc Oxide	10.00
	dermofeel® sensolv MB	Isoamyl Laurate	5.00
	TEGOSOFT® OER MB	Oleyl Erucate	5.00
	Campo Coffee Oil (Decolorized, Deodorized)	Coffee Arabica Seed Extract	3.00
	OLIWAX® LC	Cetyl Palmitate; Sorbitan Palmitate; Sorbitan Olivate	4.00
	dermofeel® NC MB	Polyglyceryl-3 Distearate; Glyceryl Stearate Citrate	4.00
	dermosoft® DGMC MB	Polyglyceryl-2 Caprate	0.50
	dermofeel® Toco 70 non-GMO	Tocopherol; Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil	0.50
C	Verstatil® PC	Phenoxyethanol; Caprylyl Glycol	1.00
		Fragrance (Perfume)	0.20
		Water; Sodium Hydroxide	QS to pH

Procedure for Throwing Shade – Tinted Protection Cream:

1. Premix water and homogenize for 15 minutes then continue mixing. Premix BRONTIDE and Xanthan Gum and add to the Water. Heat to 70-75ºC with mixing.
2. In a separate vessel, add each Phase B ingredient and heat to 70-75ºC with mixing.
3. Combine Phase B into Phase A mixing well. Homogenize for 2 minutes. Cool to below 40º
4. Once cooled, add Phase C ingredients, and mix well. Adjust pH to 7-8. 

Results:

Appearance: Beige to tan opaque viscous cream
pH @ 25°C: 7-8
Viscosity @ 25°C (LVT Spindle T-F @ 3 rpm; 1 min): 135,000-140,000 cps

Formulation No. DWLA2115

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